Visit Hakone: Top Activities and Tips

Hakone is a beautiful region about two hours by car from Tokyo, famous for its peaceful mountain air and tons of onsen (hot springs) — it’s the perfect place to relax and unwind. People have been coming here for centuries to escape the city hustle and enjoy some calm, and it’s still a popular getaway today. Back in the Edo period (1603–1868), Hakone was way more than just a peaceful retreat. It was a major military and strategic spot. It sat on the Tōkaidō Road, the main highway connecting Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo), and served as the last checkpoint before travelers reached the capital. This checkpoint was key for the shogunate to control the flow of people, stop weapons and goods from being smuggled in, and keep an eye on samurai families to prevent uprisings. Pretty important stuff! Besides its military history, Hakone is also famous for the Hakone Shrine, a spot that’s been a pilgrimage destination for centuries. The original shrine was located higher up in the mountains, but it was moved to its current lakeside location. If you’re up for a little hike, though, you can still visit the original site and get a feel for Hakone’s spiritual side. One of the main reasons we decided to add Hakone to our itinerary was because we wanted to spend some time around Mount Fuji and really soak in the nature surrounding it. After some searching, we found a pretty affordable hotel in Gora, and it seemed like the perfect spot to base ourselves.

The journey to Hakone

Once we were in Tokyo, we fired up our trusty Google Maps and let it lead us to Gora. The trip took us about 3 hours. We caught the Odakyu Line from Shimo-Kitazawa Station to Odawara Station, and we loved the ride. There’s something special about the express trains—they take you through little villages and rural areas that show you a completely different side of Japan, something you miss out on if you go with the Shinkansen bullet train. It’s like you’re getting a sneak peek into local life, far from the crowds of the big cities. When we got to Odawara, we followed Google’s instructions to the bus stop and hopped on the bus it told us to take. The ride was super pleasant, and we even passed through Yumoto, a charming little village with shops and restaurants. We made a mental note to come back later and explore it more. However, things took a bit of a turn when we arrived at our stop. We got off the bus and found ourselves in the middle of nowhere—just a few buildings on a mountain road and what looked like the start of a trail. We were a little confused by Google’s directions, but luckily, there was a tiny shop nearby. We asked the gentleman there for help, and despite our total lack of Japanese and his not speaking much English, he pointed us in the right direction.

We followed his advice, and before we knew it, we were climbing a ridiculously steep set of stairs up the mountain. Thankfully, we were only carrying backpacks, or it would have been much harder. Halfway up, we were already wiped out, and that’s when we started thinking maybe we wouldn’t go back to that lovely village we passed through earlier and just stay up here in the mountains.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we made it to Gora—sweaty, tired, and ready for lunch! As we stood in front of the hotel, we looked to the left and saw something that made us both stop in our tracks: Gora Train Station. Turns out, there was an easier route we could’ve taken: Shimo-Kitazawa Station → Odawara → Hakone Yumoto Station → Gora Station (yes, the same Yumoto we’d just passed by on the bus).

Lesson learned: Google Maps is a lifesaver, but it’s worth double-checking and exploring other routes before you head out!

Hakone- Gora Acommodation

We stayed at the Emblem Flow Hakone, and let me tell you, it’s a fantastic place! Super clean, great breakfast, and the staff are incredibly friendly—they really go out of their way to make you feel at home. You also have a washroom with a coin-operated washer and dryer—so convenient for keeping your clothes fresh throughout the trip.

One of the highlights was the onsen. Amazing! The healing sulfur water comes straight from the mountain, and you can enjoy it right at the hotel without splurging on a pricey ryokan. It’s such a treat!

Since all the private rooms were fully booked, we opted for the mixed dormitory. I was a bit hesitant at first, but it turned out to be great! Each bunk has its own little safe, a space for your bag, and a curtain for privacy. It was my first time in this type of accommodation, and honestly? I really enjoyed it. Everything was super comfortable and clean, and the other guests were so respectful—quiet and mindful not to disturb anyone. It’s kind of like a capsule hotel experience, but with a cozy, laid-back vibe.

My Trusty Tropicfeel backpack felt right at home here as I could unpack everything comfortably and found a home for all!

Gora

Gora is this super cute little mountain town with an artsy vibe. It’s the kind of place people go to unwind for the weekend—full of nice hotels, relaxing onsen, traditional ryokan, and quirky little cafes and restaurants. But the real star of the show? The Hakone Open-Air Museum. It’s such a cool spot, with modern sculptures spread out in the woods, and right in the middle, there’s a Picasso museum with the biggest collection of his work. It’s seriously impressive.

Getting to the museum is easy—you can either take the train or just walk there. We decided to walk, and guess what? On the way, we stumbled across Gyoza heaven, aka the Gyoza Center. After soaking in all that art, we went straight there for dinner. Gyozas and sake? Absolute perfection after a day like that!

We also planned to check out the Hakone Gora Park, which is apparently a must-see. But yeah, we got there too late, and it was already closed. Definitely saving that for the next trip.

If you’re a tea lover, you absolutely have to try Chaseki. It’s not just about the tea—it’s the whole experience. It’s officially the most expensive tea we’ve ever had, but honestly, worth it! They also offer pastries to pair with the tea if you’re in the mood to splurge. We decided to skip the pastry (trying to be sensible), but the tea itself? Amazing. Totally worth the indulgence.

Oh, and on our first day, while waiting to check in, we stopped by Coffee Camp for lunch and a coffee. The place was super cozy, the food hit the spot, and the staff were super friendly. Such a chill way to start our little Gora adventure!

The Hakone loop

When we decided to add Hakone to our itinerary, it wasn’t exactly a well-thought-out plan. Honestly, all we knew was that we wanted to spend some time near Mount Fuji. We saw there were a few things to do in Hakone—a lake, some nature—and then stumbled across this pirate ship you could ride on the lake. That sounded fun! We found an affordable place to stay nearby and figured, why not? That was the extent of our research.

Turns out, we dropped our travel pin in just the right spot!

On our first evening, I decided to try out the onsen—it was my first time ever, and wow, what an experience. While I was soaking in the warm, healing waters, I started chatting with this super friendly Korean girl. She told me about a cable car that takes you up Hakone Mountain and then back down towards the lake. It sounded amazing, and just like that, our plan for the next day was sorted!

Cable Car to Owakudani Observatory 展望台（大涌谷）

Right at Gora Station, you’ll find a train that takes you up the hill to the cable car station. We thought the whole point of the cable car was just to get across the mountain to the lake. So, imagine our surprise when it stopped at the top of the mountain, and we discovered you could walk around the Owakudani Observatory!

This isn’t just any mountain—it’s an active volcano that powers all the onsen in the area with its famous healing sulfur water. You can actually see steam vents and smell the distinct sulfur in the air—it’s like stepping into another world. And on a clear day a beautiful viewing point of Mount Fuji!

One of the must-try things here are the black eggs. They’re regular eggs boiled in the sulfuric hot springs, which turns the shells black. Local legend says eating these eggs is super healthy and can even add years to your life! We didn’t try them, but from what I’ve heard, they taste just like regular ones—just with a volcanic twist.

If you’re up for more adventure, you can book a guided hike around the volcano.

Should you do a day trip from Tokyo and have a rental car, you can even drive up to the area and park comfortably.

Lake Ashimoto - Lake Ashi

After picking up our first souvenirs of the trip at the shop, we continued our descent toward Lake Ashi.

As you make your way down, be ready for a jaw-dropping view of Mount Fuji and Lake Ashi. We got lucky with a perfectly clear, cloud-free sky, and there it was, standing tall and iconic, with no clouds in sight to block its beauty. It felt like we’d won the lottery with the weather!

When you reach the bottom, you’re right next to the lake and the Pirate Ship Togenday Port—how cool is that? The ship sails across Lake Ashi, connecting three different ports you can visit:

HAKONEMACHI

MOTOHAKONE

You can buy a boat ticket for multiple stops or just go one-way to whichever destination you prefer.

We decided to go straight to MotoHakone, not realizing the gems at the first stop, like the Hakone checkpoint (definitely on my bucket list for next time).

As soon as we disembarked the first thing on the itinerary was lunch! After a delicious lunch at Shinshō Soba (深生そば), with full bellies and happy hearts, we started wandering through the village, slowly making our way toward the Hakone Shrine. This shrine, founded in the 8th century and dedicated to the mountain kami (spirits), played a huge role during the Edo period, where travelers would come to pray for safe journeys. It was actually the first shrine we’d ever visited, so it was extra special for us.

We spent hours hiking around it, and I have to say, if churches were located in such stunning spots and prayer involved hiking through the woods to connect with nature, I think I would’ve loved it as a kid!

If you’ve looked up Lake Ashi, chances are you’ve seen the famous image of the Red Torii (Heiwa Torii) standing in the lake. It’s as beautiful as it looks, but here’s the thing: everyone else wants that Instagram shot too, so be ready to wait in a pretty long line for your turn. If you’re serious about that photo, go super early in the morning to beat the crowd—or be patient! We decided to skip the line and snapped a lovely photo of the lake from a beautiful bridge just a few meters away. It turned out to be a great view as well.

After all the exploring we caught the bus H to Yumoto. There, we wandered around, had dinner at Gallery Cafe Utrillo, and then took the train back to Gora Station, feeling pretty content with our day.

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